Windows Height Replacement, Side
Windows Rebonding, Rear-view
The OEM part is prone to smudging the windscreen rather than clearing
it. A number of people have replaced the wiper with the Bosch Super 24 -
you need to squeeze the middle with pliers to make it fit (or file the
lugs away if you're so inclined). It's recommended to lay a cloth or
something over the gap between the windscreen and the front clam to
catch the retaining pin as it pops out. Wipe the blade before use with
meths to clear packaging waxes.
The S2 blade is better than the S1 anyway. A cheaper version is
available from Geary at Eliseparts
Thielert also produce a double bladed wiper that is highly
Mike Knowles: The standard Elise windscreen wiper motor is
from the Citroen AX.
The early Elise has a flat piece of glass for a rear window with a
glued-on foam surround, whereas the later 111s model and other variants
have a piece of glass with a bonded rubber surround. The later item is
tilted differently to produce different night-time reflections from the
earlier ones (i.e. to produce a reflection of the dash instead of the
mad person reversing into your rear view mirror :-) ).
The earlier style rear windows were notorious for the foam rubber
coming away from the glass. This is easily reattached with the use of
some adhesive (although make sure it's safe for glass).
The rear window is also an area where rattles can occur. The easiest
way of fixing this is to attach foam pads to the metal tabs on the
underside of the roll hoop that hold the window in place. Also you can
try the same pads on the roll hoop fixings at the sides, as these rattle
like buggery too.
Side Windows Height
The leaks from the top of the A-pillar when it's raining can be
alleviated in one of several ways (sometimes used in conjunction). These
are the meticulous fitment of the soft-top, and the adjustment of the
To fit the soft-top "properly", you will need to get the soft-top
perfectly centred by using the tab on the leading edge and lining it up
with the gash in the windscreen frame. You will then need to maximise
the material at the join between the central plastic strip and the side
plastic strips by stretching that material out as wide a possible before
fitting the side strips.
To adjust the side windows, you will need to take off the interior
door panel and adjust an oval shaped lobe on the window mechanism that
adjusts the front/rear height of the window.
The plastic strip at the leading edge of the soft-top sometimes
snaps. This does not mean that a new soft-top is needed, as the snapped
strip can be worked around.
The later type cant rails came with a spring clip that held them in
place when doing up or undoing the roof. Sometimes these can get bent
out of shape and result in the cant rail falling onto the car whilst
you're trying to do up or undo the roof, resulting in nasty scratches.
These clips are a few pence from a Lotus dealer and can be unscrewed
from the existing rails easily.
Always try to wind up the side windows with the door open, as this
puts less of a strain on the mechanism. It also means that when you
subsequently shut the doors the window will have a better seal on the
When closing the door with the roof on and the windows up, always run
a finger down the soft-top/window seal, making sure that you've not
trapped any of the soft-top in the door, as this can lead to leaks.
The side windows are notorious for coming loose from their winder
mechanism and sinking into the doors. If this happens, you should remove
the door lining and plastic inner bag, and use some window bonding
adhesive to glue the window back in place on the runner.
Compiled by Fd
A very common problem with the S1 window mechanism is when the window
glass becomes unbonded from it's carrier, and falls into the door or
details the procedure required to replace the window carrier mounts and
rebond the window glass.
This occasionally works loose, but can be easily fixed by tightening
the Allen key (don't over tighten or you'll pull the mirror off). If you
need to replace the mirror, note that it is not stuck in the centre of
the screen but is off-centre by about 4-5 inches (away from the driver).
The are from the old Rover Metro/100, and can work loose or droop
over time due to the ball joint becoming smooth. A simple fix is to
simply roughen it up again with coarse grain sand paper. The mirror
glass can be replaced separately - Rover part number CRD10012 (costs
Disclaimer : All information is supplied as a guide only.
No Guarantee as to its reliability can be issued.
You use this information entirely at your own risk.
No Reproduction or Reuse without prior written consent.
© Elise FAQ Team 2002