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Jamón

Many hams of the world are heavily salted and smoked, whereas Spanish Jamones are always dry-cured and have 3x less salt and much less moisture than a north american country ham. The dry, cool air of Spain's mountains, along with its changing seasons, provide an excellent environment for curing. The traditional method still used by many producers is to wash and salt the hams and then hang them to dry a secadero with windows open to the mountain air. This is followed by extended time in a cool storage cellar known as a bodega. Near the time of its completion, a calador, or tester will probe with a bone tool (cala) to test the quality of the meat based on its aroma. This lengthy process can take 2-4 years, and allows the chemistry of the meat to transform for superior flavor.

Jamón Iberico.

Iberico ham, also called jamon iberico or jamon de pata negra is produced from the rear legs of the iberian black pig.

Ham from the front legs / shoulder of the iberian black pig is known as paleta iberica or paletilla iberica. Paletillas are smaller and usually slightly cheaper.

There are three main types of iberico hams: Bellota or Montanera, Recebo and Cebo (from highest to lowest quality). The quality is determined by the breed of the animal, its diet, how it was raised and how it was processed.

Bellota (acorn) or Montanera is the highest quality grade for hams, Paletillas and Lomos and must come from nationally registered pedigree iberico pigs. To qualify as Bellota the animal must be free range for at least for 60 days - grazing on dehesas (a type of wooded pastureland along the border between Spain and Portugal) where they have access to acorns. Whilst grazing, Bellota pigs must gain at least 60kg ( 101lb), on average animals weight about 150kg before being slaugthered, much less that ordinary pigs as they exercise more. These hams have a marbled fat that is rich in healthy mono triglycerides (like olive oil) that melt at room temperature. The ham is cured for at least 3 years before being released and often labelled 'reserva' and 'gran reserva' to denote their age.

Jamon iberico de bellota has far less calories than traditional pork meat and over 50% of its fat is non-saturated. Jamon iberico is a significant source of vitamins B1, B6, B12 and folic acid.

The Denomination of Origin (DO) covers four regions. To the north, Salamanca and the town of Guijuelo, home of Joselito, arguably the most famous name in jamon. To the west, the province of Huelva and particularly the town of Jabugo. To the east there is the less well-known denomination of Valle de Los Pedroches and finally, bordering on Andalucia, is the dusty region of Extremadura.

Recebo are hams or Paletillas from ibérico pigs who have have enjoyed a shorter diet with acorns or added less than 50% to their weight during the Montanera. The rest of their weight is gained eating cereals and fodder.

Cebo are hams from ibérico pigs who were raised on a diet of cereals and fodder (no acorns). The ham is cured for 24 months. Jamón ibérico cebo de campo denotes free range.

Pure Iberico is used to describe hams when both the mother and the father of the animal are regostered pure iberian pigs & comes most often only with the Bellota Grade.

The term pata negra is also used to refer to jamón ibérico in general and may refer to any one of the above three types.

All iberico hams have a relatively high fat content compared to jamón serrano, giving a richer taste.

Portugal produces a related ham from black iberian pigs called presunto de porco preto.

Lomo

Lomo iberico, also called lomo embuchado or caña de lomo iberico is a sausage-type cured meat coming exclusively from the loin of the iberian pig. Similarly to ham, it can be graded Bellota or Montanera, Recebo and Cebo. In addition to pork, lomo contains some spices (red pepper, oregano, garlic) and olive oil. It has a little fat that is "marbled" in the meat providing a distinctive smokey flavor. A good quality lomo iberico or lomo embuchado has a pinkish to redish color and has been cured for 4 to 7 months. Each pig produces two thin lomos of about 1m each, each lomo is cut into very thin slices, almost transparent to light, best eaten at room temperature with bread and some cold and dry Sherry wine.

Jamon Serrano

Jamon Serrano (literally mountain ham) refers to the meat obtained from the legs of the White pig - Sus Scrofa Domesticu s- or the Duroc pig and is considered of inferior quality to Iberico from the Iberian pig. Jambon bayonne and Italian prosciutto crudo are similar. A foreleg prepared in the same manner is called paleta.

Jamon Serrano is legally classified depending on the length of the curation process:

- Gran Reserva: over 15 months
- Reserva: between 12 and 15 months
- Bodega: between 9 and 12 months.

The regulatory text for Jamon Serrano (in Spanish) can be found here.

Embutidos

The rest of the pig is used for other cured products, such as:

Chorizo de cerdo ibérico A cured sausage made from chopped pork, pork fat and paprika. There are hundreds of regional varieties, some containing garlic and herbs.

Lomo de cerdo ibérico The cured tenderloin of the pig. Señorio De Montanera make a stunning version covered in lard made from the fat surrounding the pig's kidneys.

Salsichon de cerdo ibérico Another sausage, cured for at least four months.

Morcon de cerdo ibérico A larger, less well known sausage cured with herbs and spices.

Serving

Ham should be consumed at room temperature, or about 21ºC. At this temperature the fat appears lustrous; when it is too cold, its appearance is more opaque.

Slices should be thin, of medium size, and contain a certain amount of the marbled fat that gives them their particular succulence.

Storage

Hams should be kept in a cool, dry place (between 10º and 15º), preferably hanging, or on a ham holder. Any ham that is cut should be consumed immediately, or wrapped in wax paper or cling film to avoid contact with air. It is recommended that you cut only as much as will be consumed.

Each time you slice the ham, protect the cut area with some of the larger pieces of lard and rind, so that the fat on the surface always remains fresh The first slice should be discarded if the meat has been exposed for some time.

To further protect the ham it is recommended that you cover it with a clean dish towel.

Jamón Appearance

Mold: A thin layer of mold may appear on whole hams. This penicillin-like mold is completely harmless. It can be removed with a clean, damp cloth or with a cloth and olive oil.

Small white spots (thyroxine): These are small "chalky" granules that form between the muscle fibers during the curing process. They vary in shape, size and location. They are amino acids found in aged meat and cheese products and are perfectly safe to eat.

Iridescent colouring: This colouring can be seen on the cut surface of the ham and in certain parts of the meat. The colouring sometimes has a metallic appearance. It is insignificant as far as the quality of the ham is concerned.

Salt: Sometimes saline precipitates may form on the surface of the ham in dry conditions. This inorganic salt does not affect the flavor of jamon and can be brushed or wiped away.

White film: This may be seen on the cut surface of whole or boneless hams. The film is mostly thyroxine (same as the white spots). Simply discard the discolored slice.

Fat: Whole hams tend to be rather fatty, which protects the meat and helps it keep longer.

Stockists and mail order

• spanish-hams.co.uk
• Papadeli, Bristol
• Harvey Nicols, branches in Edinburgh, Manchester and London
• Brindisa, Borough Market, London
• Whole Foods Market, branches in London
• Fortnum and Mason, Piccadilly, London